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2018 Aglianico, Beechworth
The grapes were hand-picked, destemmed, crushed and fermented in small stainless-steel vats. Fermentation temperatures were controlled to retain the varieties unique aromatics and avoid the extraction of excessive tannin.The wine was then aged for 24 months in seasoned 600L thick staved demi-muids.
The 2018 Aglianco is a medium to full bodied wine, with firm but fine-grained tannins; and good acidity. Classical varietal aromas of fennel, aniseed Dutch liquorice and fragrant red fruits.
The Vintage: Growing season conditions varied considerably. Early season temperatures were mild followed by a deluge of over 150mm of rain in early December; and another 40mm in late December. This provided considerable soil moisture reserves for the hot January which followed. A fortnight of days above 30 degrees from mid to late January, were trying but February temperatures declined, and fruit was harvested in mid-February.
The Inspiration: A variety from southern Italy doesn't immediately come to mind as something suitable for the climate experienced in the Alpine valleys of north-east Victoria, where the vines are grown. But if climate change is real, then these vines will be perfectly suited sometime in the future as things begin to warm up. Mature vines in an ideal climate is the goal. Grown on stakes without trellising or irrigation, the vines found on the slopes of Mount Vulture in Basilicata are my benchmark.
Wine review
Tasting an aged vintage like this, one comprehends the need for time in barrel to tame the ferocity on hand. The result is thoroughly impressive, particularly for a variety as noble and tannic, albeit, from relatively nascent plantings. Blood stone, camphor, dried tobacco leaf and damson. Some whole berry pulpiness plies a hint of generosity across the mid-palate, while the phalanx of tannic grit across the forceful finish leaves little doubt as to what is in the glass. Aglianico seems to promise very good things on this turf. I look forward to the future. Drink or hold. Screw cap. - 93 points from Ned Goodwin MW for James Suckling.
This 2018 Alpine Valleys Aglianico is meaty, savory and dense—texturally, the tannins are woven into every fiber of this wine. There is nowhere the fruit goes that the tannins don't follow. There is blood plum, kalamata olive, cracked pepper, pastrami and blackberries. Really engaging, the tannins are locked and loaded. At four years of age, it is teetering on the brink of showing development, and that's ok; the combination of tannin and fruit in the mouth shows that this has miles to go - 93 points."
- Erin Larkin for Robert Parker, Wine Advocate.